Rabbits are increasingly popular pets. Little balls of fur with a plush look, they often have an assertive character that clashes and makes them very endearing. However, these fragile animals are not games for children, but full life companions. They, therefore, have specific needs in terms of food (fresh plants, unlimited hay, no mixture of seeds or sugary foods) and a living environment (life in an exclusive cage is not recommended). As with any pet, it is advisable to be well-informed before considering adoption. If you're ready to take the plunge, you'll find that there are a wide variety of rabbit breeds. Here are a few things to guide your choice.
Dwarf or toy rabbits
The rabbits most frequently encountered in pet stores are dwarf or toy rabbits. A dwarf rabbit weighs, in adulthood, around 1.5 or 2 kg. There is a multitude of coat types (short hair, angora hair, lion head, etc.) and coats (black, white, fawn, black and tan, agouti, etc.). These rabbits have been selected to maintain a smaller size than the classic breeds of rabbits.
This selection is even more advanced in toy rabbits. These are recognizable by their hooked nose, very small skulls, and adult weight of around 1kg. The selection of the size is accompanied in particular by modifications of the skeleton and in particular of the skull. This predisposes these rabbits in particular to dental problems and in particular to malocclusions. This means that the teeth are not facing each other the way they should. They do not wear out properly and therefore have an anarchic growth.
Indeed, rabbit teeth grow constantly during their life. If the wear is abnormal, the tooth may be deviated, injure the tongue, or cheeks or see its root sink into the jaw bone. In some cases, this can lead to dental abscesses or even cause chronic rhinitis with a rabbit rubbing its nose, sneezing, with purulent nasal discharge. These little rabbits, therefore, have a size adapted to life in the house but require regular monitoring to control the growth of teeth, in particular.
ram rabbits
Lop rabbits are recognizable by their atypical ear carriage. They indeed have long drooping ears, carried vertically on each side of the head, the opening against the cheek. They are usually massive rabbits, with very short necks.
There are many breeds attached to this type. In France, the oldest breed is a so-called giant breed: the French Aries. Its adult weight ideally exceeds 5.5 kg. Crosses have been made to obtain smaller sizes such as the Little Aries with an adult weight of around 3 kg. Varieties of dwarf rams have also been selected, with different coat textures such as:
- the Dwarf Angora Ram;
- the Dwarf Ram Rex;
- Satin Dwarf Aries.
The long drooping ears of these rabbits give them a very endearing physique. However, they predispose them to otitis externa. These ear canal infections are very rare in rabbits with erect ears. In Aries, earwax is difficult to evacuate due to the fold at the base of the ear which closes the base of the canal. This, therefore, promotes maceration and the proliferation of germs in the duct. Signs of otitis must therefore be looked for, particularly in rabbits (itching of one or both ears, head shaking, head tilted, etc.). Local care, including ear washes, can be performed.
The giant races
In contrast to the dwarf breeds, which are very widespread, there are breeds of giant rabbits. The most famous, in France, is the Giant of Flanders. This rabbit with a coat reminiscent of that of wild rabbits weighs more than 7 kg and its erect ears are 20 cm long. Other large breeds exist such as:
- the French Giant Butterfly;
- The White Giant of Bouscat.
These rabbits with impressive physiques thrive outdoors or freely in the house but obviously do not lend themselves well to life in a cage.
Breeds with atypical coats
Certain rabbit breeds have been selected on the quality of their coat. Rabbits of standard size (between 3 and 4.5 kg) are thus obtained with hair of a particular quality. The most famous of these is the Angora rabbit.
The hair of these rabbits grows longer and faster than in conventional rabbits. They are therefore extremely long and very soft. They are used for making textiles, after harvesting by combing. Another long-haired rabbit is the Fox. In this breed, the hair is not uniformly long, but only in certain areas. This gives it a really typical appearance and makes it popular, especially in Germany and Switzerland.
On the contrary, Rex rabbits have been bred to have shorter coats than the rest of the rabbits. With an upright, erect coat and dense undercoat, Rex rabbits feature a unique velvety feel fur.
Finally, the Satin rabbits have an impressive coat luster, offering an extremely soft touch and reflections reminiscent of satin. All these breeds have been crossed to create new varieties, dwarfs or rams, for example. Not very widespread in France, they require, for breeds with very long hair, considerable maintenance in order to avoid in particular digestive obstructions by hairballs.
What should I know about rabbit breeds?
In conclusion, there is a great diversity of rabbit breeds. They differ mainly in size and physical appearance. This conditions the living conditions and maintenance that the rabbit will require after adoption. It is therefore strongly advised to inquire beforehand and think about the personal investment that one is willing to provide for the good of the rabbit. In case of questions, do not hesitate to contact a veterinarian specializing in new pets or a breeder specializing in a particular breed.
Choose a male or female
The gender difference is hardly marked when they are young. Subsequently, both sexes are considered docile. Nevertheless, your male rabbit could bother your life with his jets of urine intended to mark his territory while your female rabbit will have a few periods of heat. It is strongly recommended to have your rabbit(s) spayed and neutered. Note that the cost of sterilization in a female is slightly higher than that of a male.
At what age?
Your rabbit must be more than 2 months old after his adoption to be sure that his weaning is complete. Before this period, his mother may not have had time to pass on to him what she should normally do for the future of her little one. In a shelter or breeder, your future rabbit will normally be educated and sterilized. If you opt for a kitten, you will have to pay for its sterilization and education.
Where to adopt your rabbit
There are, as with many animals, several places to adopt your rabbit.
At a professional breeder. This is a good place to adopt a purebred rabbit. What's more, it's almost the assurance of owning a healthy rabbit, well-behaved in its first weeks. However, do not give your blind trust to the breeder. Check for yourself the habitat of your future rabbit.
In a private home. Many people face unexpected or unwanted pregnancies. They resell at a ridiculous price or then give back their rabbits. Even more than in a breeder, you need to check the good health of your rabbit and his lifestyle. Do not hesitate to ask questions to the person who resells his rabbit.
In a pet store. This is the least popular solution. Indeed, a pet store is often a source of sick rabbits or rabbits that evolve in poor conditions. Pet stores also often sell rabbits at too young an age.
In a shelter. The latter takes in abandoned rabbits. A monetary contribution is sometimes required. Not at the SPA which does not set any fixed rate. In a shelter, rabbits are often treated much better than in a pet store. Even a rabbit that has experienced a complicated beginning of life, perhaps marked by the wickedness of its former owner, can be treated.
Adopting a healthy rabbit
In any case, your future rabbit must be healthy. Several signs do not deceive.
The ears must be perpetually in motion and not let appear any uncleanliness (crusts, discharge, hairless areas ...)
- His eyes should not be reddened or watery. They should also not be dirty.
- Your future rabbit should not sneeze or have a runny nose, whether liquid or thick.
- Your rabbit's hair should be smooth, without apparent parasites, and silky.
- Check the condition of your future rabbit's teeth: straight, and aligned.
- Your rabbit's skin should be smooth, without any crust or bite marks.
- The hair on the back of your rabbit should not show any traces of soiling or possible diarrhea.
- Your rabbit's abdomen should not be swollen, but flexible.
More generally, you should notice a lively, alert, but not fearful rabbit when you approach him. It should be calm when you try to take it into your hands. This will be proof that contact with humans has been established. Thus, you will not have this education to do.
Buy several rabbits?
A congener is not essential for your rabbit, but it is preferable. Indeed, rabbits are animals that like to live in society. However, if it is well chosen, the 2 rabbits can live in harmony. Try as much as possible to favor a castrated rabbit and a sterilized rabbit. You will not have any surprises about a possible gestation.
In addition, a male and a female never come to fight, unlike 2 males or 2 females together.
In short
Your future rabbit can come from about sixty different breeds recognized by the FFC. It must:
- Be healthy
- Coming from a breeder, individual, or refugee. The pet store is not recommended
- Be older than 2 months to be fully weaned
- Be accompanied by a congener provided that the latter is of the opposite sex and sterilized
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